Life, Stress, and the American University

It started the other night as we were playing ping pong and I was talking to my neighbor, a musician from southern Italy, about the university system in the U.S. "You guys are so lucky," he said, "your universities have everything." The girl sitting next to him, a student from Japan who normally attends university in Italy, nodded her head in agreement. A little taken aback by this statement, I asked him to clarify. "What do you mean our universities have everything," I asked, "how are they any different from the universities here?" They looked at each other, and then started talking about the marvel of universities with sports programs and clubs and multiple other opportunities outside of studying. "Do you live on campus?" they asked, and when I answered with an affirmative, their eyes grew wide with wonder. I think this conversation was the start of my consideration of the differences between universities in the States and the universities here. 

On the one hand, my friends had a point. Although some clubs and sports teams do exist here, the concept of such a thing as school spirit is more or less non-existent (this fact is probably best observed in the complete lack of any type of clothing--sweatshirts, t-shirts, hats--bearing the school logo). One attends university here to study, not to do extracurriculars. In addition, because practically all of the universities here are public and more or less equivalent in quality (with a few exceptions for specific programs, such as medicine), most people stay within a one to two hour radius of their hometown, and it is not at all uncommon to live at home while completing university studies. In this way, the American university certainly does have a unique appeal, as the opportunities extend far beyond classroom studies. On the other hand, I tried to explain to them, this idea of participating in activities outside of studying has become in recent years more of a compulsion in American high schools and universities than a choice. Such participation is practically a prerequisite for attending a university in the upper echelons or maintaining a competitive resume for the workforce. That is not to say that such activities cannot be enjoyed--of course one is in control of the type of extracurriculars in which one participates--but at the same time, the concept of "being a well-rounded person" has been taken to such an extreme in the U.S. that at times it can become almost unhealthy. Such attempts to constantly "be involved" and maintain a competitive edge often lead to a ridiculous amount of unnecessary stress at American universities.

As I talked with a friend from India last night, she noted something similar. She is a graduate student here at the University of Innsbruck, yet she commented on the lower amount of stress present here than in universities in India where she completed her bachelor's and master's degrees. "Even if I come back from the lab late at night, I don't feel stressed," she said. And as I thought about this point, I realized that it was not something particular to the universities, but rather something common to the culture here in general. Although people here are still studying and working hard, more time is taken outside of work simply to enjoy life and relationships with others. This, I tried to tell my Italian friend, is the beauty of attending university here.

Of course, there are pros and cons to both systems, and I am really quite grateful for all the opportunities available at American universities, and particularly at Notre Dame. At the same time, however, I think I am discovering here the value of slowing down and valuing my relationships with those around me, and I hope this is something I can carry back with me to the States next year. As the saying goes, "Carpe Diem!"...or perhaps more appropriately in my case, "Genießen jeden Tag." 

American as Apple Pie

One of my favorite questions to ask people here is simply, "What do you think of the U.S.?" I have found this to be a wonderfully interesting conversation starter, as the responses tend to be varied. With a German and a Swede on my floor, it led to a discussion about American television programs available here in Europe. The Swede listed with enthusiasm American shows that he likes, including Oprah and Jerry Springer. Both he and our German friend expressed a love for Joel Oesteen, the American TV-evangelist and motivational speaker. Perhaps it was just my own stereotype of Europe, but somehow I was not expecting a TV-evangelist to be at the top of most Europeans' most-watched lists. "Joel Oesteen," I responded, "what do you like about Joel Oesteen?" Their answer? His positive attitude, the way he says everything with a smile. "It's just so...so 'American apple pie'," responded the Swede. And I've found this perception of the U.S. is not so uncommon here. During a similar conversation in our Political Science class, our professor mentioned the idea that anything is possible in the U.S.; that the "American Dream" still lives on. Of course, he also mentioned the more negative perceptions of American politics in recent years--the general dislike of George Bush, the unpopularity of the war in Iraq, etc. At the same time, however, he closed his speech with a very interesting point. "As much as we may not like the current U.S. politics," he said, "we can never forget what the U.S. did for us in WWII. Without the U.S., it would've been a very different war." It is statements like these that make me realize how tightly bound Europe and the U.S. really are, and make me appreciate my heritage as an American. Of course, every culture has positive and negative aspects, and I can't pretend to be blind to the faults of the U.S. But I think one of the best parts of being abroad is learning to appreciate one's own roots while respecting the traditions of others. Here in Austria, I am learning to love things like Dirndls and fresh-baked bread and sorting my trash into four different types. But I am also realizing what a privilege it is to be an American--to be a part of the melting-pot nation, the nation where anything is possible. This is something that is really unique to the U.S.--something that gives its sometimes rough-around-the-edges appearance a special spark. But then again, my view might be a little biased. After all, as the saying goes, "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder." And as Dorothy says, "There's no place like home." A view of the Alps from Innsbruck

Wordplay

While learning German certainly has its ups and downs, lately I have discovered how entertaining language exchange can be. My terrible pronunciation and lack of vocabulary have, believe it or not, served as an icebreaker in many situations. The most prominent example of this is my constant battle with the German "r". This is a running joke with my host family, as they find my inability to pronounce this letter (which, ironically, occurs three times in their last name) quite humorous. At the same time, however, the enjoyment is not completely one-sided--last weekend, my host mother accidentally translated the song title "Der Mann im Mond" (The Man in the Moon) into "The Man in the Moose"--a translation from which her daughters and I derived much entertainment. 

It is these experiences, however, that make learning a language (and a culture) so much fun. It is always a give-and-take; I introduce an aspect of American culture, and they introduce an aspect of Austrian culture. I teach them pig latin; they teach me B-Sprache (the German equivalent). I offer to teach them how to make chocolate chip cookies; they offer to teach me how to make traditional Austrian dishes. It is truly a neat experience to be a novelty somewhere, and to see what associations different people have with the U.S. One elderly man here was under the impression that Americans regularly drive to towns two hours away simply to go out to dinner. During a visit to my host family, my host dad started talking about the danger of bears breaking into houses in certain areas of the U.S., followed by a story of a survival skills course one of his friends had completed in Canada. Such incidents remind me of a saying that my math tutor used to have posted on his wall: "Everybody is ignorant, just in different subjects." But then again, who would've thought that enlightenment could be so entertaining? 

Short List of All the Nationalities for Which I've Been Mistaken So Far...

(1) Austrian (2) Polish (3) Czech (4) Australian (5) Canadian (6) French (7) British

Heimweh und Mehr

As wonderful and exciting as Austria is, lately I have been experiencing a little bout of that unavoidable plague: homesickness. While I have certainly experienced many things so far about Austrian culture that I love and admire, it is unavoidable that there are still certain things that I miss or prefer about American culture. It is in this subtle way that homesickness sprouts. A silly but good example of this: I miss free water in restaurants. It may sound like an absolutely ridiculous complaint, but honestly I think free water is probably one of the best advantages of eating in an American restaurant. In Austrian restaurants, if one feels inclined to order water, one usually receives a bottle of water, for which the price ranges anywhere between 1-2 Euros. As an avid drinker of water at restaurants, this can get quite pricy very quickly. I miss sitting down at an American restaurant with a large pitcher of water, hydrating myself with a couple of glasses over a good conversation before my food comes, and then drinking another couple of glasses with/after my meal. Ridiculous, you say? Just wait until you have tried to eat a whole pizza without any beverage in order to make your stipend stretch further. Alas, after all these years of free dining hall beverages I am finally experiencing the true life of a college student...

On the other hand, one thing that I do prefer about Austrian restaurants is the fact that one must ask for the bill--the waiter/waitress will not automatically bring it. This gives has the pleasant advantage of allowing one to linger after a meal and digest one's food while enjoying the company of one's friends--which can be a very nice way to spend an evening, and keeps the dinner from feeling rushed. Perhaps this would not be cost effective for American restaurants, however, since people like me would continue to drink the free water long after the meal was finished...

On another note, I have decided to include just a few thoughts about each city we visited on our trip last week:

Prague: Super cheap, super touristy. But definitely worth visiting. Even the Pope thought so--he spent the weekend in a building only about a block away from our hostel! All you need to know about the Czech language: tag a "y" or an "icky" onto an English word and you will probably have a perfect Czech word. Examples: Souvenyry, Turisticky, Republiky...not even kidding.

Berlin: Probably the most modern and the most historical city I have ever seen. Sound like a contradiction? Kind of. But the city had the feeling of always moving into the future, which I really liked...wish we had had more time here!

Nuremberg: An adorable and VERY German town. If I were to send a postcard from a German town, I would send it from here--this town was literally the epitome of Germanness. Or at least of Bavarianness. But it was a great town to spend a day in--they had a wonderful little farmers' market going on downtown where we were able to find two specialties of the region--chinaware and Lebkuchen (a special type of cookie). Yum. 

Just a quick anecdote about a fun German phrase we learned today:

Generally speaking, the food here at the Heffterhoff Hotel is exceptional--after all, what's not to love about a 3-course lunch? Today, however, the soup was a little on the salty side, and our German instructor had no qualms about promptly pointing this fact out to the waiter. She then asked the class if any of us were familiar with the phrase "Ist der Koch verliebt?". Translation: "Is the cook in love?", meaning, "Was the cook distracted when he was making the food?". Clever. 

Almost Aufwiedersehen

Tonight we walked down to the park just a few minutes away from our hotel to hang out and watch the guys in our group play basketball. This has become a fairly regular occurrence for us, to the point that we’ve even befriended some Austrians with whom the boys often play basketball. As we sat in the park today, I suddenly got the urge to swing. In order to clarify this urge a little bit, allow me to explain—an Austrian swing is not just any old swing. Swinging on an Austrian swing is a particularly satisfying experience. I still have yet to quite understand what makes this experience so delightful. Perhaps it is the way in which the swings are built—the seats are made out of a hard piece of plastic rather than the floppy rubbery substance characteristic of American swings, and for some reason the chains move back and forth smoothly so that when the swing reaches the top of its arc, the swingee is not thrown back with that little bit of whiplash one typically experiences in an American swing. Perhaps it was the comfort of the park, which is always busy around evening with the same people—kids playing on the playground, men playing soccer on the field next to it, and people of all ages going for their evening walks/bike rides. Or perhaps it was the beautiful view of the large mountain not too far from the park that is always covered by clouds a little bit at the top. Whatever the case, we must have swung for at least an hour—and I could not have been happier. Sitting on that swing, it was amazing for me to think about how quickly Salzburg has become like home. Although I look forward to our time in Innsbruck, there are a lot of things I’m going to miss about Salzburg—going to Mass at St. Peter’s in the Altstadt, walking by games of street chess, the quiet peacefulness of the town—broken only by the literal symphony of bells that occurs when all five churches in the area announce the hour at the same time. I’m going to miss the daily rhythm of life here in the Heffterhoff Hotel—watching other groups come and go for various conferences, and seeing the familiar faces of the staff members every day. This city is so peaceful that there is really no description I can give that would do it justice or accurately portray its essence. At best, the most I can say is this—this city feels like eternity.  

Salzburger Dom (Cathedral)

We're Not in Kansas Anymore...

Although perhaps more subtle here than in some countries, after a few days the cultural differences between the U.S. and Austria are definitely starting to show. For one thing, Austrians comment on every—and I mean EVERY—breach in manners. This has both its advantages and its disadvantages. On the one hand, it’s a little embarrassing to be called out for putting your salad and main course on the same plate or wearing flip flops outside of the hotel—but on the other hand, at least you will not make the same mistake twice! Although I had the impression before coming here that Europe was more formal than the U.S. (don’t ask me where I got that idea), I think the difference is not so much that Austria is more formal as that Austrians are more likely than Americans to call you out on etiquette faux-pas. Whatever the case is, I have never been so grateful to my parents for all their nagging at Christmas dinners as I am now…

 

Another cultural difference by which I was slightly surprised is how prevalent the honor system is here. For example, in the U.S., if you want to buy a newspaper from a stand on the street, you must first put in your change before you can even open the machine to get out the newspaper. The streets of Salzburg, however, are covered with little bags full of newspapers hanging from trees and lampposts, with only a small device for inserting your change at the top. Someone could easily open the bag and take out a newspaper without paying for it—but then again, I suppose it reflects well on the city’s population that nobody does that…

 

I am also starting to realize that Americans are workaholics in comparison to the Austrians! Most of the shops—including Spar, a huge grocery store chain—close around 7pm on weekdays—and almost none of them are open on Sundays. Additionally, I was kind of surprised to find that our hotel does not have a 24-hr. receptionist. Shorter workdays, Sundays off, a stronger currency—I think I’m going to move to Europe when I want a job!

 

It is true what everybody says—Europeans are trendier than Americans. Our group is still working on the fashion thing (ok, I’m still working on the fashion thing—the boys got mistaken for locals the other night)—but I am definitely open to suggestions…

Ok, that's all for now....more posts to come soon!

Austrian Newsstands

First Few Days in Austria

Wilkommen! This is my blog, where I will be documenting my adventures as I study abroad for a year in Austria. After about 23 hours total of travel, I set foot yesterday in Salzburg, where we will be spending the next month living in a (rather nice!) hotel and learning German. After that we will travel to Innsbruck, where we will begin classes for the semester. 

While yesterday was focused mainly on just settling in and going over important information with Herr Gürtler (our program director), today we got a little bit of a chance to explore the city center. Honestly, I could not think of a better way to spend an afternoon than walking around Salzburg. It is such a beautiful city! The air was cool and fresh and the city was so peaceful and quiet--we spent hours just wandering through the narrow streets (think true European style--flowers in windowboxes, cobblestone streets, a castle overlooking the city--the whole nine yards). We explored the Cathedral first and then headed up toward the castle a little ways to a point that overlooked the city. The Germans reading this blog (i.e., Katharina) will have to forgive me for this reference, but standing there on that little hill I honestly felt like I was in the Sound of Music. Seriously, I cannot emphasize enough how gorgeous this little city is!

Ok, just a few first impressions. Probably the thing that surprised me the most was how many people here speak English/how many signs, etc. are in English. Maybe it's just because Salzburg is a popular tourist destination, but it's a little disheartening when you're trying to learn German! We did, however, successfully complete our first shopping trip in German today (a pretty exciting feat for us), and we also ordered dinner tonight auf Deutsch (die Rechnung, bitte?... :) 

Also, probably the biggest cultural difference I have noticed so far is how quiet the Austrians are. I have to make a conscious effort to tone down my voice, and I feel like I am constantly whispering just so I don't cause too much of a disturbance! This has its advantages, though--for example, as I mentioned before, even though there were plenty of people walking around the city center, it was very peaceful as everyone was speaking in low voices. It's amazing how relaxing a day of whispering can be...

Alright, that's it for now, but more to come later....Tschüss!